Archive for the ‘Crappie’ Tag

CRAPPIE FISHING TIPS   3 comments

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It is always difficult to find big crappie when moving into the post-spawn period. They are usually scattered all about the lake. Recently a conversation with TJ Stallings, the man in charge of Marketing and Crazy Ideas for TTI-Blakemore Fishing Group, shed some interesting light.

Stallings, a student of fish activity, explains post-spawn crappie break up into small clusters of fish and move around very actively. That is why they are difficult to pattern. The two commonalities of their behavior are that they relate to submerged structure and are easily spooked.

On a crappie-fishing excursion in Alabama, our discussion turned to some anecdotes that seemed confusing. Two anglers fishing side by side in the same boat have a completely different experience. A person on the left gets no bites while the person fishing on the right catches nice big fish one right after another. The anglers are sitting, and are fishing, just inches apart. The pair actually moves the boat to allow the non-catching angler to fish the same spot.

Both anglers use the same tackle and bait, a jig and minnow combination.

“Where is the sun,” asks Stallings. “A Crappie reacts to shadows and other factors over looked by most anglers.” He goes on to explain some of the factors and an education in “crappie catching” follows.

Our intrepid anglers had placed the front of the boat right over a stake bed but the sun was behind them. It cast a shadow over the area fished by one man but not the other. The area in the shadow did not produce fish.

Stallings goes on to explain the necessity of silent running when approaching a brush pile or stake bed. It is a common understanding among crappie anglers that one does not approach such areas with the big motor running. However, TJ also cuts his trolling motor and drifts into his fishing area. He always approaches with the sun in his face to avoid casting a shadow on the area he plans to fish. Stallings uses a “brush grabber” to hook on to any brush instead of an anchor. It is a metal clamp that looks like the ones used to jump start a vehicle except this one attaches to a rope. The rope attaches to one of the boat cleats and holds the boat in place. The clamp attaches to a stationary object like a tree, bush or other stick up.

He also goes to extremes to fish silently. “I turn off the pumps in the live well and bait well too,” explains TJ. He only leaves them off until the bigger fish begin to bite. “You can turn them back on then as it does not seem to be a distraction when they begin biting.”

Another part of his silent running is to not talk or move around in the boat until the fish begin to bite. “I don’t talk to my partner or to any of the other boats nearby.”

Moving around is important in post-spawn crappie fishing. Because the fish are scattered, it is a good idea to only fish for about 15 minutes in any non-productive area. It is a run and gun type of experience. If fish quit biting in a single location, move on. You can always come back to the area later and it may produce more action.

 

Before moving on be sure that you have probed the entire area as fish may be only a few inches away from your bait and not take it. Nevertheless, if you move it to a location they like better, the fish will take it.

Post-spawn crappies are finicky. However, it you are quiet and watch the shadows success can be yours.

CRAPPIE FISHING AND THE DOGWOODS   Leave a comment

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The blooming of the Dogwood trees signals the crappie spawning period.  The rest of the forest is full of dark shafts of wood rising toward the sun.  On them are small buds and the beginnings of green leaves.  The mantel of green will soon provide shade a plenty.

The sighting of the dogwood and red bud blossoms seems to explode on the scene just in time for the crappies to move in to shallows in search of bedding areas.

Veteran crappie anglers take to the water with long poles and ultra-light reels spooled with 2-4 pound line.  The long poles enable one to dip his offering into the flooded buckbrush where the big ones hide.  Spring is a time of rising water levels.  Most lakes are watershed or flood control lakes.

Jigs are popular offerings by crappie anglers.  They are usually tipped with a minnow (known around here as crappie minnows) or some brightly colored plastic lure.  White, black and pink are popular colors.  Hair jigs or marabou jigs also are popular.  One sixteenth or 1/32nd ounce jigs are the size of choice.

Remember that crappies are a predator fish that likes to feed on insects and small fish.  They relate to structure which conceals them until they can ambush there forage.

Do not work your offering too quickly.  Slowly work the jig in a bouncing motion to imitate an injured bait fish.  Work the offering around any area with wood, rock or concrete structure below the water level.  In some areas brush piles attract fish.  Wooden stakes driven into the bottom in groups also work well in attracting the crappie.  If no structure is visible from the surface, all is not lost.

Some people who put out brush piles hide them so as to have the honey hole to themselves and their friends.  A boat equipped with fish locators or sonar locates these areas and any fish present.

In late spring crappie will first submerged structure more frequently.  Early in the spring they tend to stay in more shallow water as the spawning season begins.  Early go to the shore and later to the deeper water.

If the fish quit biting suddenly move about 2-feet away and try again.  Keep that up for a little while.  If that does not produce results go back to the original location and follow the same pattern with a different color jig.

One old crappie killer technique is to use the scales as an attractant.  The angler scales one of the fish already caught and sprinkles the loose scales on the water.  He waits a minute or two and then begins working the jig in the same area.  The idea is that the scales simulate a bait fish and stimulate the crappie to begin feeding actively.

CRAPPIE FISHING PRESENTATIONS   2 comments

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The seemingly endless varieties of crappie fishing presentations produce good fishing in the Prairie State. Here are some to help you boat more crappies this year.

Early season crappie fishing is highly dependent upon weather conditions in Illinois. In the southern areas, water warms sooner on average. Warming water stimulates crappie activity. The unusually warm 2011 surprised anglers when the crappie became more active earlier than normal. A lack of water due to low winter snowfall resulted in reduced levels in lakes.

March’s passing weather fronts also change crappie activity by affecting water temperatures. A few blasts of cold weather can stall normal fish activity this time of year. March crappie anglers need to be aware of the weather to gage fish activity.

Generally the further south you go the more likely you are to find fish moving into shallows and feeding hard prior to spawning. A passing thunderstorm can scatter them making the angler have to work harder. Between storms begin your exploration shallow and move to deeper water. The larger fish will probably be in deeper water.

Fish locating electronics are helpful in finding fish in deeper water. The new side imaging units are popular as they give three-dimensional views of sub-surface water. Structure and suspended fish are visible.

Fickled March crappie activity may require flexibility in technique and tackle. To that end here are some choices.

SLIP BOBBERING is probably the most popular fishing technique for crappie. A small knot is placed on the line above a hook and bobber to prevent the bobber from sliding up the line. It keeps the hook and sinker from moving too deeply in the water. The line goes through the bobber and a hook tied at the end. A split shot sinker aids the bait in sinking to the desired depth.

The bobber slides up and down the line from the knot to the sinker. By moving the knot location, you control the depth of the bait presentation.

DROPSHOTING requires an ultra-light spinning rod that is bendable but still has a stiff backbone. The angler finds a comfortable stance and points his rod at the spot where he believes fish to be hiding. This can be under overhanging limbs or under man-made structure such as a dock or pier.

He holds the lure in one hand and bends the rod down in an arc before letting go. It sounds simple but does require some practice and skill to master.

JIGGERPOLING has its origins in the early history of crappie fishing. Modern fiberglass poles of 12 to 14 feet length have replaced the old cane pole. The trolling motor has replaced sculling the boat along the shore.

Hold the pole in one hand and rest it across the opposite knee. Gently shaking the pole causes the jig to move slightly in the water representing a crippled baitfish. Shake the lure or bait along the edges of weed lines and buck brush as well as in and out of small pockets. It works well in visible wood such as brush tops, lay downs and stumps. It is particularly effective in shallow water.

SPIDER RIGS coupled with crankbaits are deadly for crappie. Their use depends upon how deep the fish are located. One method is to begin by letting out roughly a hundred feet of line. Troll with the trolling motor or big motor at 2 miles per hour. This is “long lining.”

Another use is when the spider rig mounts on the front deck of the boat and holds several rods at a time. The pros stagger their poles with multiple very small crankbaits. The set up includes different colors of crankbaits and lengths of line. At two miles per hour, with six poles, you can cover 12 miles of water. There are many fish approaching those baits in that length of time. It is a very productive way to catch big crappie.

The mini-crankbaits are especially effective in catching spawning fish and those just entering or just exiting the spawn. Keep the bait in the strike zone. The right depth with good boat control puts baits in front of the fish.

As the fish move into their cool water patterns, the spider-rigger plays out shorter amounts of line to jig fish at the same slow speed. The boat and rods can move slowly into shallow water and then back out if necessary.

DIPPIN’ is popular as the water temperatures cool and the fish move shallower. You extend a long crappie pole over the brush or other vegetation. Unlike the popular bass fishing technique of flipping, crappie anglers do not fish past the end of their pole. This way you are fishing a vertical jigging presentation.

You do everything in slow motion including moving into and out of the brush.

The presentation allows you to hold excess line in your hand and to drop in and out with minimal hang-ups. Once a fish is on the hook you lift it straight up so it is free of the brush.

VERTICAL JIGGING involves two basic rigs. The most popular is a line with a sinker at the end and an 18-inch drop line about a foot above it. Tie a jig or plain hook, with a minnow attached, to the drop line. The line drops straight below the boat until it hits the bottom. Then raise it into the crappie strike zone. This is usually about 6 inches off the bottom.

The second rig is to tie a jigging spoon to the end of the line. These spoons are usually silver in color and heavier than most spoons. Drop the spoon over the edge of the boat and allow it to sink. Raise it into the strike zone of the fish as with the above rig.

With both of these rigs gently jig them up and down very slowly.

SLAB DADDY RIGS, also known as Reality Shad Buffet rigs, are an adjunct to the new umbrella rigs popular with bass anglers. Slab Daddy rigs present two jigs on a wire rig less than 4 inches in length. It has a similar configuration to the umbrella rig with fewer hooks and lures. The idea is baitfish hide among themselves. Yet it is this safety in numbers that makes them an easy meal according to rig inventor TJ Stallings of TTI Fishing Group.

Stallings refers to the rig as a buffet rig. He has produced a streamlined two pronged rig with minnow-profiled 3/16th ounce Road Runners. The blades add flash, sound and vibration to appeal to crappie senses. There is also a version with two jigs of various colors.

TJ recommends a medium-action rod with light line. Tie the rig directly to the line, then cast, drift, or troll it very slowly. There is no need to set the hook.

FLOAT-N-FLY rigs are popular on colder days when fish suspend in deeper water. A 1/16th ounce hair jig is on a line about 5 feet below a float. Long spinning rods and 4 to 6 pound test monofilament line are used. Lob the rig to areas off of points or current breaks and allow it to settle. Wait 3 minutes. Allow wave action or take action with the rod to jiggle the line. If no response, sweep the rig about 6 feet and allow it to settle again. Repeat the action back to the boat.

 

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