Archive for August 2011

JUMP SHOOT EARLY SEASON DUCKS   Leave a comment

Peering through the weeds and brush, it is difficult to spot birds floating, diving and doing duck things on a pond.  Most of the time, they see you before you see them.  Then it is Katy-bar- the-door as they make for parts unknown. 

Jump shooting for waterfowl is an exciting, fast shooting experience.  It sure beats sitting in a blind and being eaten alive by mosquitoes.  Early season waterfowling often is a battle between sneaking up on the birds and keeping the bugs from consuming your blood supply. 

As ducks return to their traditional wintering grounds in the southern areas, so do the duck hunters.  Popular locations for duck blinds are sometimes difficult to obtain.  In an effort to get away from the crowds and still experience good hunting, many sportsmen turn to jump shooting.  

This combination of hiking, stalking and shooting of ducks is a challenge and a rewarding experience.  It beats sitting on one place all day in hope of seeing ducks.  That is boring. 

More interesting is sneaking along a creek looking for open spots that provide shots.  You listen for ducks on the water and try to outsmart them by being in their escape route when they try to get away.  Always keep an eye out for the most uncomplicated shot.  The use of binoculars to spot the birds is a great help in finding them before they find you. 

Farm ponds, oxbows, feeder creeks and small lakes all provide safe islands for migratory birds and are usually lightly pressured.  Puddle ducks come to these areas usually at dusk to roost.  They also use them for resting and getting out of the wind between feeding trips to the grain fields.  Bright, windy days are a blessing in this type of hunting. 

Pre-season scouting and consultation with local residents can lead to areas with large concentrations of birds overlooked by most hunters.  Timber islands near open grain fields are good.  Local maps of the terrain assist in finding those backwater hiding places.

Areas can be scouted from a distance with the aid of binoculars.  Once birds are spotted, notes should be taken as to time of the day that they are using the water.  And of course, be sure to secure the landowners permission to hunt. 

Jump shooting hunters must be sneaky.  A rested duck will not sit around once the hunter has been spotted.  Ducks are masters of survival.  They fly thousands of miles each year from their nesting grounds in the north weathering storms, avoiding predators, and hunters, to settle in a secluded island of habitat. 

 The hunter must use all the available cover as he eases along the water.  Often he is required to crawl or hunch down in order to get into the proper position or range for shooting.

 Jump shooting of ducks provides hunters with exercise and provides the duck with a sporting chance to escape.  The invigoration of the physical exertion, the anticipation of the flush, and the actual shooting experience all add spice to the early season hunt.

THE HOW AND WHY OF TREESTAND ACCIDENTS   11 comments

Treestand accidents account for over half of all hunting accidents in my home state of Illinois.

L.J. Smith spent many years studying the medical records surrounding treestand accidents. He reached some common sense conclusions as to what hunters need to do in order to enjoy a safe hunt.

Read on before placing your treestands this summer.

Here are some of Smith’s conclusions and recommendations.

Most hunting accidents are preventable. You need only to act in a responsible manner. If you take the time to plan necessary precautions you will enjoy a safe day afield.

L.J. finds that one of the big mistakes people make is getting in a hurry. They want to maximize the amount of time spent in place to take advantage of hunting time. Being in a hurry they ignore safety which in turn leads to trouble.

One of the more common problems people in a hurry have is falling through the ladder and getting a leg caught. It frequently leads to a broken leg.

A fatal mistake hunters can make comes from failure to wear a fall arrest system. According to Smith, “If one wears a full body fall harness and maintains contact with the tree at all times he will not hit the ground.” A person falling from 20 feet up a tree hits the ground at 25 miles per hour.

Another mistake is constructing a homemade wooden stand in a tree. In Smith’s study approximately 50 percent of the accidents reported were from homemade tree stands. This comes from rotten wood and nails that pull out of the tree.

Smith explains that the problem with home made stands comes where the legs contact the ground. The moisture in the ground seeps up into the wood and speeds up the rot. Using treated wood does not avoid this problem. Wood treatments involve the outer part of the board more then the center. Moisture seeps up the center part of the wood and rots it from the center out.

Smith feels a home made treestand should never be used. He points out that modern treestands are available for nearly the same amount of money. In addition a treestand that is TMA (Treestand Manufacturers Association) certified has been thoroughly tested for safety and durability in one of their testing centers. The centers put stands though tough tests and reject any that do not meet the minimum safety standards. Some 38 companies send their products to be tested.

Smith indicates that a treestand must be comfortable. If it is not, you will not use it. The ones on the market range from basic metal to panned ones that are very comfortable. You can get as fancy as you prefer.

The same is true of the full body harness safety systems that come with the treestands or are available as an after market item. They are in small, medium and large but are adjustable within those ranges. Most have a weight certification marked on the unit.

Remember to be sure you are attached to the tree from the time your foot leaves the ground until you return. Smith also wants you to have the tree strap above your head so that the life line attached to the harness is tight when you are seated. One should just be able to feel a tug when seated. When you stand it comes down to the middle of your back and not below the waist. If you do fall out of the stand it will only be a fall of about a foot.

Smith suggests that new treestand owners take it out back and place it in a tree about 4 feet above the ground. Then test the harness by falling out of it with the system attached and under the supervision of another person. Hunters do not need to go out in the woods and fall out of a stand without knowing what to expect.

One case studied by Smith was of a hunter in that situation who panicked when he was unable to get back into his stand. He unfastened the leg straps. The harness rode up around his throat and suffocated him.

It is vital that one make sure the treestand is properly and securely installed. Keep the harness system on while on the stand as well as while getting in and out. Unloaded firearms and bows should be brought to the stand via a haul line. They should not be in your possession while climbing in and out of the stand.

Keeping Smith’s research in mind may make your hunt this year, safe and secure.

TREESTAND SAFETY   3 comments

Caution is paramount in avoiding falls from treestands

Treestand safety is a sometimes overlooked aspect of deer hunting. We focus on scouting and all the other aspects of the sport. Sometimes we give only passive attention to safety to getting into, staying on, and getting out of the stand. We injure fewer bowhunter each year. The figures are a combination of actual falls and injuries incurred by mistakes in installing the stand itself.

There are some precautions to reduce those numbers even more. The Treestand Manufacturers Association has taken to lead in development of programs and equipment that will aid in that effort.

Treestand Safety according to Treestand Manufacturers Association http://www.tmastands.com

1. Always wear a Fall-Arrest System (FAS)/Full Body Harness even during ascent and descent.

2. Always read and understand the makers warnings and instructions before use of the stand. Practice with the stand nearer the ground. Keep the warnings and instructions for future review and reference.

3. Never exceed the weight limit specified by the manufacturer.

4. Inspect the stand and FAS for signs of wear or damage before each use.

5. Practice in the FAS in the presence of a responsible adult prior to usein it in and elevated position.

6. Install the FAS in a manner and method outlined by the manufacturer.

7. Hunt with a plan and if possible with a buddy. Let other know where you plan to hunt and how long you will be gone.

8. Carry emergency signal devices such as a whistle, flashlight, a cell phone, etc with you or near you at all time. Watch for changes in weather. In the event of an accident, remain clam and get help immediately.

9. Select a proper tree for use of the stand and FAS. Follow recommendations as to size and condition of the tree. When descending lower equipment on the opposite side from you.

10. Know your physical limitations. Do not climb when physically or mentally impaired. Do not climb to heights where you are uncomtable.

11. Do not use homemade or permanently elevated stands or one that has been modified against the recommendations of the manufacturer.

12. Do not hurry. Do not work more that 12 inches at a time and move slowly. Make sure you have proper contact with the tree. With ladder stands always maintain three points of contact with each step.

Posted 08/19/2011 by Donald Gasaway in Bowhunting, Hunting Big Game

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THE CASE FOR BIRD HUNTING CLUBS   Leave a comment

Decreasing habitat and access to private land are just two reasons for the increase in hunting preserves. Another and probably more important one is helping to introduce the novice into the sport of bird hunting. This type of hunting may not be the total future of hunting but is certainly seems to have a place.

Youngsters and older family members can participate in hunting for upland birds under situations more conducive to their physical condition. The veteran hunter is probably in good walking condition whereas others may not be so well conditioned. Legs begin to tire quickly when walking over uneven ground for several miles following a dog.

Land that was formerly open to hunting is being inherited by family members with a different agenda. Hunting upland birds one needs small patches of farm land such as those that once dotted the landscape. These small areas harbored flocks of birds.

Some present day landowners want to keep the land for their own use, while others are turning it into housing developments. Others are anti-hunting and do not want to contribute to a sport of which they do not approve. Still others are afraid of lawsuits in the case of an accident even though the number of hunting accidents has significantly decreased in recent years.

Those who lease the land to deer hunters find that the lessee does not want bird hunters going in and stirring up the deer just prior to or during deer season. They do not want bird dogs harassing the deer.

Those are the negatives, now some of the positives of preserve hunting. The main one is that it offers hunters a place to introduce novice hunters to the sport of bird hunting. If you really want to get a novice excited about bird hunting, take them on a hunt where they can see and shoot numbers of birds. They can be assured of seeing birds and will have an area to themselves. For the person living in town and without a bird dog, it is a chance to hunt over well trained bird dogs. Guides and dogs are available at most preserves.

For the hunter with a bird dog, it is a place to work the dog and work on training needs. Many bird hunters these days will travel long distances to hunt upland game. The preserve offers them the chance to check out the dog’s performance prior to making that trip. If there is some aspect of the dogs training that needs correcting, the preserve is the place to do it.

For the land owner it is a chance to put some marginal land into production. Perhaps the land is not good farmland. The landowner can still obtain an income from the land that will help pay the taxes and other expenses of the property.

Shooting preserves provide a quality hunting experience in a safe and ethical surrounding. They are a great place to build a hunting buddy for the future.

SHOTGUN TIPS FOR WATERFOWLERS   1 comment

Emerging from Final Approach Layout Blind, Hunter Shoots Maxus Shotgun (Photo By Howard Communications)

Think that missed shot is due to your gun? Well just maybe that really is the problem. Failure to match a shotgun, choke and ammunition is probably a major source of missed waterfowl opportunities.

According to Mike Jordan, Winchester Ammunition Company, “With a shotgun the most important thing is the point of impact.” Probably the majority of hunters do not understand just what that means. Jordan maintains if you do not know the point of impact you’re not going to be an effective shooter. It may be off from where you would guess anyway. You need to know.

No matter what the shot size or choke, one needs to bench rest shoot a shotgun just like you would a rifle. Jordan recommends shooting it up to five times at a spot. Then examine where the patterns are centered.

If everything is centered it removes a big part of the job. If the gun is shooting off center, then it might be worth a trip to the gunsmith to remedy the situation. “You will never be a good shot with a gun that does not shoot where you are looking,” says Jordan.

As for a choke/shot combination there are two ways to go: (1) use a choke and shot size that will take care of the most extreme shots, or (2) use one that takes care of your average shot situation.

Jordan believes that most shooters are well advised to use a more open choke than they think they need. “A modified is a good all around choke,” maintains Mike.

A modified is tight enough for all waterfowl hunting. Most hunters are still comparing steel shot patterns to the old lead shot. An improved choke will give a workable pattern out to 40 yards. The modified takes it out a little bit further. With steel you can add about five yards because steel patterns tighter than lead with the same choke.

Jordan explains that with waterfowl he used modified for just about everything. “It works for me but it might not work as well for someone that does not shoot as much,” says Jordan. “They might want to start with improved cylinder.”

“Bismuth responds to a choke,” maintains Jordan. “An open choke will shoot open with the average Bismuth load.” Buffered Bismuth loads shoot a lot like steel and will shoot tight no matter what choke one uses. Tungsten does not offer the option to shoot an open choke. It shoots tight with everything.

Mike finds that he goes a little bit larger with steel shot loads. “I use twos for a lot of my duck shooting,” says Jordan. “That would be equivalent to the old lead fours and it does a pretty good job.”

If one is shooting over decoys in timber Jordan feels you can use threes and ones effectively. If pass shooting over lakes then larger shot is better.

When it comes to geese, Jordan goes for a heavier load of steel. He maintains the big shot fills in the pattern. He stays with the modified choke because the bigger shot give about as tight a pattern as you can get. With too tight a choke the pattern tends to get ragged.

Jordan is quick to point out that if you do not get out and shoot a lot your not going to hit anything. He recommends sporting clay participation all year around for the shotgunner. “The improvement in a guy’s shooting is amazing,” concludes Jordan.

CATFISH IN CARLYLE LAKE, ILLINOIS   1 comment

Carlyle is the largest inland lake in Illinois. Located about 50 miles east of St. Louis in Clinton, Bond and Fayette Counties, it is accessible via Interstate 64 and U.S. Route 50. The lake is a reservoir formed by the damming of the Kaskaskia River near Carlyle, Illinois in 1966. This Corps of Engineers lake is 24,580 acres in size with a shoreline of about 85 miles.

Rectangular in shape it is 15 miles long and 2 to 3 miles wide. Maximum depth is 35 feet with an average depth of 11 feet. During August the lake becomes chemically and thermally stratified and the dissolved oxygen level is low below 12 feet. This causes fish to be concentrated above that level. The area north of the railroad tracks that bisects the lake is shallower with an average depth of about three feet. It can be as deep as eight feet. Most of the better catfishing habitat is found there.

Good baits for this lake include: cheese baits, leeches, crickets, cut shad, shad guts and nightcrawlers. Good locations are the main lake points were creeks meet the main lake. If water is flowing past the dam, then the tailwater below the dam can yield good results.

Channel catfish from this lake tend to average 2 to 5 pounds with most being in the 1 to 3 ½ pound sizes. During some of the annual surveys taken by the IDNR 13 pound fish are found. Net catches done by the IDNR indicate that the abundance of channel and flathead catfish is at or above the mean for the last 10 years. Flatheads in the 3 to 7 pound class dominate the fall surveys. Flatheads up to 20 pounds are collected by biologists.

The flatheads in the lake tend to be 5 to 10 pounds in weight and the current State Record flathead catfish was 78 pounds was caught in this lake. It is mounted and on display in the Information Center at Eldon Hazlet State Park. Big catfish can be found in the spillway area from the dam to the swinging bridge.

There are four marinas on the lake. One is at the north end, just south of the railroad tracks. Two others are at Keyesport on the west and Boulder on the east. They all provide access to the main lake and the best fishing areas of the north end. For access to the southern tip of the lake, there is a marina at the Dam West Recreation Area. The Visitor Center is also located in this area.

The Corps maintains some 800 campsites in eight public campgrounds. Motel accommodations are available in nearby towns. Advance reservations are a good idea due to the popularity of the lake in late summer. Contact the Carlyle Lake Management Office, R.R. 1, Carlyle, Illinois 62231 618-594-2484 for information.

There are daily use fees in place on this lake. They are payable for use of the 14 parking and launch facilities. Self-deposit boxes are located in the fee areas and additional information can be obtained from the Visitor Center at 618-594-LAKE. Camping and cottage rental information is available at Eldon Hazlet State Park 618-594-3015.

FALL FISHING ON SMITHLAND POOL   2 comments

Smithland Pool on the Ohio River is a relatively easy place to fish as far as where the fish will be located and what is going to be good water.

It is not that the river itself is tough to navigate. Any problems lie in the creeks that feed into the Ohio. In the Smithland pool most of the timber has fallen and there are subsurface stumps waiting to grab your lower unit. You have to be cautious and idle in and out of the creeks.

Smithland has changed over the years. Some of the places from the early 80’s when it was first impounded are still good areas to fish.

There are two ways of looking at fishing Smithland. One is to creek fish and if the availability is there the other is fish the main river channel. The river fishing is almost as if you are fishing a reservoir not really river system.

Some of the good areas to river fish are creek mouths. Run from creek mouth to creek mouth. Begin 50 yards below the creek mouth and work to 50 yards above the creek mouth. Then go to the next creek mouth. Those are the concentration areas.

Unfortunately some of the creek mouths are beginning to silt in and becoming very flat in the mouths of the creeks. There are still some of them that are defined enough. They have enough flow in and out of them, without so much sediment depositing there, that they create a little bar or a little drop off. Most are 3′ to 5′ deep on top to about a depth of 10 foot. Then they fall off into the original river channel.

As a result one has a shallow flat with a primary drop of 3 to 5 feet and then a secondary drop at 10 feet to the original river depth. It is a shallow flat, an adjacent drop at 3 to 5 feet, and another drop at 10 feet. There are three places in one location to look for fish.

If the fish are located at the secondary drop at 5 to 6 feet of water it is possible to go from creek mouth to creek mouth and concentrate in there to do really well.

The pattern generally works well from the end of May through the fall. It is a very consistent way to catch fish and a way to catch the biggest fish.

The second way to fish Smithland pool is by getting on the creek channel proper and following it all the way back to the last part of the creek where there are flats on both sides. It is where the creek will get back into the woods and actually becomes a creek again. Concentrate on getting back into the woods about thirty yards and work out about 100 yards.

Bass have a deep water sanctuary, a feeding flat, and spawning areas. The back third of the creek is the most consistent place to fish on the pool year around and the best way to catch numbers of fish.

You may not catch a lot of big fish back there unless except in the early spring. But, you are going to get a consistent bite.

There is a hidden surprise on Smithland pool. That is spotted bass. It is tough to pattern them. If you can pattern the spotted bass it is possible to get 6 to 9 pounds in the livewell.

There has always been a population of spotted bass in the river. They are 12 to 14 inch fish on average.

It is recommended that you use small tubes, Series 3 Strike King crankbaits and other small crankbaits that will get down 3 to 5 feet in the current. Always fish the current to get the spots. Look for relatively stable water and reasonable clarity. They can be easy to catch once you find them. If they are biting you can catch them quickly. But, they are not reliable.

Smithland Pool is a fishery that takes a lot of strategy. It is not a place where you can go and hole sit. You have to legitimately find or develop a pattern and then work that pattern.

SHOTGUN SHOOTERS THINK ABOUT THIS   1 comment

Mike Jordan Helps Novice Shooters

Sitting around with Mike Jordan of Winchester Ammunition on a trap range, the subject of how to choose guns and ammo for trap, sporting clays and upland bird hunting just had to come up.

“When I pick out a shotgun,” says the many time champion of the trap range, “my first thought is need.” “What am I going to hunt? What am I going to do with it?” Mike explained that you can choose from three or four different action styles: over and under, side by side, pump, or semi-automatic. He decides which is going to work the best for him. He is quick to add that he must also consider if he can I afford it.

Affordability is an issue, what you are going to hunt, and then the type of action that you want to use. Jordan grew up shooting pump guns so he is comfortable with them. A lot of people who have shot automatics all their lives are not comfortable with a pump gun. They need a semi-auto or an over and under.

Choosing ammunition is where Jordan believes the rubber meets the road. It is your only contact with the game animal or target. There is a lot of good ammunition out there and what you need is to ask yourself again. What am I going to hunt? How am I going to do it? If a deer bullet is needed it must perform well on the target. A long range situation is different than if there is a lot of brush. In brushy areas require a heavier slower bullet.

Shot shells are the same way. In dove hunting you need a light load with light shot. You will shoot high volume so you do not want a lot of recoil. There may be more effective shot shells than what you pick. However, if you shoot a couple hundred shells in a couple of days you are going to be sore and probably not shoot as well. All are factors the shooter must consider.

Some people are switching to reduced recoil shells. To Jordan the reduced noise and reduced recoil is more of a training load than anything. It will not kick, make you flinch and teach bad habits right away. You can break a few targets without excessive recoil. One of his favorite loads is 12 GA one ounce. It is a light target load. With only 1180 feet per second and comparatively little recoil it will break any target thrown on a trap field. It is a good load to shoot high volume.

Choosing loads from a chart is a good place to start. “You don’t have to go by them religiously,” says Jordan “but they give you a guide line of a selection of two or three loads.” Pick your favorite from them.

Jordan highly recommends patterning shotguns to see where the barrel prints. Some people shoot shotguns for years and complain that they cannot hit anything. Their barrel just never shoots where they are looking. Get a box out or a big piece of paper and shoot the gun and see exactly the point of impact. If you miss you will know on what to work.

The beginning shooter should get someone to watch them to prevent developing poor shooting habits. It is just like a golf pro getting someone to spot for him. If you get good fundamentals you can always fall back on them. Mike prefers to build good habits rather than worry about bad ones. Good coaches are very valuable for that.

Jordan explains that the shooter should keep his cheek on the stock before, during and after the shot and swing through the target. As the gun goes off you still have your cheek on the stock and as you finish the shot you follow through. It is a good habit that will have your leads and sight picture more consistent.

Probably one of the worst habits is looking at the beads or looking at the barrel rather than looking at the bird. If you do you may or may not hit the bird. You do not know why you missed. Probably you were not looking at the target. If you look at the target and the gun fits you, you will shoot where you are looking. Your eye is the rear sight of the shot gun so you have to keep that rear sight consistent. Imagine shooting a rifle where someone keeps moving the rear sight around every shot. You are not going to hit much.

With a shotgun keep your face on the comb where it is supposed to be and finish the shot. You always have a reference. You always know what you are doing. Even if you miss you have an idea of why. If you move your head around and come off that stock and miss. You don’t know why. So then you do not know what to do correct the problem.

Some people use a magic maker on the bead or block the bead. Some people call them bead checkers. They cannot see the bead and so they look at the target and start shooting better.

The ribbed barrel was probably designed for sighting down. A good shooter Mike knows got his custom gun with no sight. It just had a rib and he shoots as good as anyone. All he had to look at was the target and he is very successful.

There are some new beads good for hunting in bad light. Sometimes when duck hunting you will have a problem seeing the end of your barrel. On those occasions it is good to have a bright sight on the end of the barrel to know where the end of the barrel is in relation to the duck or goose. There have also been some improvements over the years in sights themselves.

Mike Jordan’s years of experience are reflected above in a simple approach to the sport of shooting.

DAY PACK FOR HUNTERS   Leave a comment

Photo Courtsey Blue Heron Communications and Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation

In recent years, more hunters are resorting to the use of a day pack to meet his needs in the field. As we begin the fall hunting season, it is time to think about packs and their care. With a little maintenance a pack can last through many years of service.

When purchasing a pack, it is recommended that you wear the kind of jacket you will be wearing while using it. Look for extra long webbing on the shoulder belt adjustment as well as the hip belt. Take a jacket off the rack in the store before putting on a new pack if you do not have your coat with you. While hunting you will most likely be wearing extra clothing you usually do not wear while shopping. You should purchase a pack with straps that have extra length so as to have room for expansion.

It is wise to pick a pack with a Ahaul loop@ on the top so that you will not be grabbing the shoulder straps. Repeated carrying of a pack by a single shoulder strap can lead to failure of the strap. This usually happens at the most inopportune time.

Proper maintenance will help you avoid problems later in the field.

Keep all the buckles and shoulder strap buckles fastened when the pack is not worn. When storing the pack it is a good idea to hang it on a clothes hanger by looping the straps over and closed around the hanger for support. Open all the compartments and air out the pack before storage. To prevent mold and mildew be sure that the pack is completely dry. Never store a pack that is wet, damp or dirty.

Packs can be cleaned regularly by using a soft brush and mild soap and water. Never use harsh detergents or tumble dry the pack in a dryer. While cleaning, check for abrasions, tears and any loose threads.

Inspect your pack regularly. Check any stress points for abnormal wear. Make repairs as necessary before going into the field. Repairs can be made using strong upholstery thread or unwaxed dental floss and a heavy duty needle.

Take care of all the zippers. Clean them often with an old toothbrush and lubricate them with a high quality silicone spray. Frayed fabric should be trimmed back to keep it from getting caught in the zippers.

When ready to pack for the field, remember to distribute the load weight carefully so as not to imbalance yourself. Day packs are made to ride on the back with the top of it about six inches below your collar.

It is wise to take the time to experiment with your packing arrangement at home before the season begins. You will then know exactly where everything is when it is needed in the woods. Things least likely to be needed can be in the bottom. Clothing is an example. Next are items such as pruning shears, knives, etc. They should be wrapped in zip lock bags with a rubber band around the outside. With these two layers, the bag will be stable when you sit it on the ground. Lighter objects will be in the upper layers.

Do not overload a pack. Overloading can cause harm and discomfort to your back. The day pack should only hold things that you might need for one day in the field. Items such as: a first aid kit, extra clothing, rain gear, food for lunch, a camera, and ammo are all that is needed. Items that are sharp, such as tent pegs, climbing items like tree spikes, etc. can cause damage to the pack. It you need them, it is a good idea to wrap them in an item of clothing to protect the pack integrity.

Water bottles, maps, compass, G.P.S. units, and fire starting kits should be placed in the outer pockets where they are more accessible. You can also place any snack or trail mix there as well.

BUGS AND BUSYTAILS   Leave a comment

Squirrel season has come to the Midwest. For the avid hunter that means the beginning of hunting season and he can’t wait to get out there. To me it is a kind of mixed blessing. Granted I am anxious to hunt squirrels. But, it is still buggy out there. I hate ticks!

My basic equipment for early season squirrel includes a full camouflage suit or at least dark clothing. Insects tend to like dark color clothing so preparation for the insect is a must. I either try to sit silently and wait for those tree rats, or still hunt them. A combination of the two can be effective.

Sitting is the most relaxing way to hunt, especially if one if fortunate to find a wooded area full of squirrels. It is just a matter of sitting in a comfortable position and waiting for the bushytails to come out. If calling, sitting is probably the most productive way to hunt. Squirrels have a way of sitting on the opposite side of a tree from me. Sometimes a few squeaks from a call can instill some curiosity and he will move around for a better look for an intruder he thinks he is hearing.

Still hunting is very challenging and more popular with those who cannot sit still either due to being bothered by bugs or just because he does not like that type of hunting. It calls for skill in moving slowly through the woods at a time when brush on the ground seems to make everything noisy. The hunter looks for signs and sounds of squirrels. This can be chucking little barks or simply the rustling of bushytails scuffling through the canopy. Still hunting is probably better worked in pairs. If the squirrel sees one hunter and moves around behind a tree or limb, he is exposed to the other hunter.

Early in the season and with fair weather, squirrels move are most active early and late in the day. They are usually feeding on what can be called soft mast. This can be flowers, seeds, and just about any kind of fruit or mushroom. They can be found in trees of secondary importance: ash, beech, cypress, elm, maple, mulberry, pine and walnut. If a cool day hits, then they will hole up until conditions improve. It the weather improves later in the day, they will become very active until dusk.

At any time, the wind affects squirrel movement. They do not like wind because they cannot see or hear danger as well as on more calm days. On windy days they tend to hole up. By paying attention to the weather forecast, the hunter can improve his chances of seeing squirrels.

Squirrels, as well as other wildlife, are most active just before and just after a front passes.

The early season hunter hopes he does not see a lot of bugs and does see a lot of bushytails.

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